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Da I Miei Video by Igor Production:
Il Mont Dolent.
Il Mont Dolent è posto all’estremità nordorientale della catena del Monte Bianco. La montagna segna anche il confine tra Italia, Francia e Svizzera e divide i ghiacciai di Prè de Bar, d’Argèntiere, del Dolent e dell’A Neuve. Osservato da qualsiasi angolazione, il Dolent, offre un aspetto always impressive. The north wall and one of the most severe glacial slopes of the Alps and descends to a thousand meters on the A Neuve glacier in the Swiss Val Ferret. Great view from the Mont Blanc and the Grand Jorasses. Note
mountaineering. The first ascent ofDolent, was carried out on July 9, 1864, the British E. Whymper and A. Adams Reilly with the guides of Chamonix, M. Croz, H. Charlet and M. Payot along what is now the normal way. All ridges and walls were then climb this mountain. On the northern routes were opened on ice very difficult to count for little repetition.
Start first day:Arnouva. (1769). Difference
first day 1035 m. (2800).
second day Departure: bivac. Cesare Fiorio. Difference
second day 1025 m.
Difficulty: PD + .
Equipment: rope, ice ax, crampons, helmet.
Map: 25000 N ° 107 IGC
need to go all the Valle d'Aosta, Courmayeur we get a little further turn right the road to the Val Ferret, you should go to the huts of Arnouva. In fact during the summer traffic in Val Ferret is limited, but if necessary there is a shuttle service that we can seek information from the telephone number 0165/842060.
After parking the car in the parking lots available along the Arnouva at Careggi, Careggi continue on the dirt road to the Elena hut, a few hundred meters before reaching the shelter, a signpost on the left shows the path Cesare Fiorio bivouac.
Go up first on a steep moraine north, the Co du Petit Ferret, then abandoned the moraine detritus, the track becomes longer accessible on the first steps on the ground and stones and snow, until you arrive at the bivouac.
In fact, the two camps, one of 24 + 6 seats, the other smaller, only 4 seats.
better to start the next morning when the camp is still night, as you climb up the south east then, more than likely find the soft snow. It may look more closely and the elevation gain of only 1000 m. from the camp, not scare them, but the climb is long, unfortunately.
We climb the glacier of the Pre de Bar, keeping always on the top, almost directly south to the tip. After a long walk through snow and rubble end of the season, we come under the slopes of Mont sore. After passing the crevasses of the glacier terminal, now the climb becomes more difficult, the south-east descends into a gorge hundreds of feet, one slip could be devastating, however, must first pass a snowy ridge, halfway up, then mounted to east in a channel with a slope of not less than 45 ° (note the soft snow and not resort) if you need to better trace the rocks, but very unstable. They are more firm the rocks on the right side of the channel, right, up to the terminal crest. The crest
terminal will travel to the left on the wire to the top with passages of Grade II. On top lies a Madonna.
I guess that's a climb but not least, the descent from the canal, if the snow was unstable better to do abseiling tower on the right, further south, the rock seems to be more stable and visible just a string of dropped meters below the crest. With 30 m rope double to get on the already good, maybe you can go down the hill with more shots, but I do not know.
The rest of the descent of the road for the route. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Careggi first signpost on the Elena refuge.
Aiguille de Triolet.
La punta di sinistra è il Mont Dolent.
Bivacco Cesare Fiorio.
Attraversamento della cresta a mezza costa.
Risalita delle roccette instabili.
L’ultimo tratto di cresta.
La madonnina sulla vetta del Dolent.